Sunday, December 17, 2006

10,000 clicks from home

The 777 'cockpit cam' flickered into life at dawn as the sun reflected on the mighty Mekong, a silver snake winding its way through the delta - our first sight of Vietnam.

We landed at Saigon and spent an absorbing few days exploring the city by day, then strolling down the old Rue Catinat and sinking a beer or two at the haunts of foreign correspondents in darker days. The Majestic, Caravelle and Rex (where the US Press Corps gave their daily updates on 'progress' against the VC, then moved to the bar to forget the reality of war).

Thuy, our local guide, painted in words what the books can't describe - what are the hopes and fears of the new generation of Vietnamese? Has the 'American War' been laid to rest? You've really got to make your own mind up by visiting this incredible country and talking to its people.

Following Saigon and the inevitable trip to Cu Chi, we travelled into the heart of the Mekong Delta, visiting local business, factories, and crossing this magnificent river along the way (16km wide at one point). My usually conservative tastes were put to one side whilst we sampled Elephant Ear fish, Snake wine and the like!

After an exhausting few days, we plunged into the luxury of the
Victoria Can Tho and its majestic setting on the banks of the Hau River, and relaxed.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Into the Heart of Darkness

I guess the Vietnam War lodged itself in my memory alongside The Beatles, Nixon and the death of John Lennon as iconic moments during my formative years. My taste for the Orient deepened during our honeymoon to Thailand and, soon, we'll be flying out to Saigon, and working our way up the Mekong into Cambodia.

It's almost time to say bye bye to Blighty and head for the humidity of the Mekong and its lands. We fly into
Saigon and then have some boat trips planned throughout the Mekong delta, visiting family businesses and floating markets. Our guide then takes us from Can Tho to Chau Doc via village wanderings which should be great! From Chau Doc the speed boat takes us to Phnom Penh ("5 hours" - every trip in Cambodia apparently takes "5 hours"!). Nothing prepares you for Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields, but we're here to immerse ourselves in the culture and history, not lie on a beach somewhere. We'll then fly on to Siem Reap for a good few days to look around Angkor, before the trio of flights home (Siem Reap to Saigon; Saigon to Frankfurt; Frankfurt to Heathrow).

We're both passionate readers and and there's no better book than Francois Bizot's "The Gate" to understand recent Cambodian history. I'd urge anyone with an interest in Indochina to read this important book. For an insight into life as a foreign correspondent, try John Swaine's "River of Time".


The alternative Lake District

Being a piscean, I was destined to settle in the area described as the "alternative lake district". Based around Theale (a relatively unscathed village in the heart of the Thames Valley), over 30 lakes have been created out of the gravel pits, excavated for the construction of the M4.
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Like Hosehill Lake, shown above: it really is a haven for wildlife and it will always have a place in my heart. Kingfishers, Peregrines, Nightingales, Hobbies and Ospreys have all been sighted in and around Hosehill Lake Local Nature Reserve.
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Working from home occasionally, the best possible start to the day is a dawn bike ride around the lakes, lifting the spirits and helping centre me for a day of emails, phone calls and general office emergencies. Places like Hosehill help to remind me of the relative unimportance of work, office politics and the rat race in general. Focus instead on the beauty of the sun's reflection or the song of the nightingale.